Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
